EngineQuest ch350c Vortec Heads, RHS, GM 906 & 062

So this topic is dedicated to vortec heads, specifically EngineQuest. And you all can post anything related to vortec heads here. But im going to spend the most time on the EngineQuest vortec heads part number CH350C, they are known as EQ Lightning, or EQ Sledgehammer vortec heads. Sold by the company AA Midwest. The reason why im spending more time on these heads is because they are a better alternative to the original GM castings. Its all up in the air whether or not GM castings were prone to crack alot even though evidence shows they do, but to fight that, Engine Quest designed their own head exactly like the L31 vortec. Its a thicker casting so its heavier, how much? I dont exactly know, but it weighs about 51 lbs bare. EQ claims to have a redesigned and better flowing water passages/jackets to cool the head better. They are already tapped for 3/8 in screw in studs, which is a big winner on my checklist, seem as how the GM castings only have press in studs, which are fine if your bolting them on a stock small block with a super mild cam and original valve springs, but thats not my case, i need and want the extra security of screw in studs. EQ's casting was made in a foundry in Australia, but have recently changed to a new foundry in New Zealand. I have been in contact with Engine Quest and all my info im posting is directly from them. The intake runners are 176 -180cc which is more than the stock GM heads. From what i read 906 heads flowed 170cc, and the 062 were 160 something? But not sure. Engine Quest recently bought RHS (Racing Head Services) tooling on their vortec heads, which is why they changed foundries. The castings that come out are super clean and smooth, I was quite impressed when i got mine, but i still cleaned them up a bit, as there were some imperfections, but no head, and i repeat NO head is a bolt on out of the box ready one, unless they had all the good stuff done to them. Right now the EQ's are a steal on eBay, $268 each bare HERE. Ive got another topic on here of installing these heads on my engine, you can click HERE to see the journey and everything you need to do it yourself.

SPECS:
Intake Runner 176-180cc
Combustion Chamber 64cc
3/8 Screw-In Studs
1.94" Intake valve
1.50" Exhaust valve
3 Angle cut

FLOW NUMBERS:
CH350C
Chevrolet V8 5.7L Vortec
Intake
Lift CFM
0.1 54
0.2 103.9
0.3 147.6
0.4 194.4
0.5 224.3
0.6 226.2
0.7 228.4
Exhaust - Without pipe
Lift CFM
0.1 49.3
0.2 87.6
0.3 118.8
0.4 139.7
0.5 148.5
0.6 152
0.7 152.7








Ive got a fel pro intake gasket on in this pic

They look good I was going to ask how much till I looked here they sound good for the money. Although I was debating

whether to spend the few dollars more and get aluminum heads what were your thoughts on say Edelbrock aluminum heads


vs these?

These are my thoughts on aluminum heads.

1. if you have the money get them!
2. if your putting them on a block without it being zero decked and having flat top pistons dont bother with them, you can run a full point or more in compression with aluminum heads using the same octane gas, so if you dont have it zero decked and flat tops to take advantage of it, its not really worth it, a steel shim gasket can only do soo much, you need a good quench.
3. this one is obvious, the weight savings which is a plus
4. this applies to both iron and aluminum, purchase a bare set, most of the time if your running a bigger cam you will need valve springs to match and assembled pairs(not all!) usually use stock or much less of a spring rate which kills overall performance
5. If your looking at the edelbrock e streets, those are a good looking set of heads, but ive heard mixed reviews about them (about the installed hardware, not the castings), and before i settled on iron vortecs, i had these in my shopping cart, but since everything i said in number 2 applied to me, i decided to pass, and you cant use a steel shim gasket on aluminum, you need a mls (multi layer steel) gasket, so that right there would hurt my compression ratio.
6. the debate of durability, alot have debated that iron was more durable and less prone to cracking, aluminum is fine and very durable, i wouldnt let this be the deciding factor.
7. again if you have the money and the block is all machined and flat tops installed id definitely go aluminum
As with anything, they both have their pros and cons, but it just depends on what your working with.

I agree, my thoughts exactly that's why I haven't purchased them . I was thinking about buying a pair of yard

heads and just paying for the basic machine shop work and do the rest I have all the tools for redoing heads.

However given the price of these it would be close on cost and seems like the way to go. First I wanna see how

these 72 heads work who know maybe they have been ported have a 3 angle valve job and have been milled lol.

well when you do take them off, and if they dont already, put fel pro 1094's on to bump up the compression a bit, assuming the block hasnt been touched.

That's what I was thinking except I didn't know exactly what gasket precisely thank you.

As far as aluminum heads this project money isn't a huge issue(within reason lol) I need to have some though

for a decent paint job which is the single most expensive item on my list. So if I can 300-400 dollars with iron

over aluminum I will.