My New Project

Looks good underneath with the exhaust.  Is that 2 1/2 or 3?

What gears are you going with in the 8.2?

Looks like a 4L60 trans.? So you don't have to have 4.56 gears.

The pipe is 2 1/2". The rear axle is an 8.5" and I went with 3.42:1 gears. The trans is a 4L60E only because I wanted the low 1st gear. One car with 4.56 gears is enough. This one is hopefully nice to drive down the road at 60 MPH not revving 3500 RPM.

I got my air intake tube made, computer flashed and running. I learned you have to leave the EGR Enabled in HP tuners so my wideband can give information to my ECM on the EGR position wire. I also learned you can put a 2002 truck operating system in a 093854896 ECM. Everyone is always bent on having a 12200411 ECM but I have a bunch of the 1999 and 2000 computers. I even put in a DBW vehicle and went in and shut it off and it still worked fine. I am going to finish the tail pipes tomorrow. The hood will close the way it is but will not if I put the engine cover on. I might make something out of aluminum if I get a chance.

Today's projects.
I got rid of the Buick gas strut hood supports and replaced them with some Impala spring style hood hinges.
I made an aluminum console because I needed some cup holders.
I put on a set of Ebay stainless headers and spark plug boot protectors.
I also made a drive shaft loop.

I love your fab pieces , is the that close to stock placement (horizontal and vertical) for the motor? Do you think it would fit better if you had puled it back or did you?

The motor is close to stock placement. Knowing what I know now I would have moved it back a couple of inches. It would have made the Holley header/manifolds fit better and I would not have put on the headers. I had to make a new transmission cross member and shorter driveshaft with the current location so it wouldn't have been any more work to move it back. There is a good few inches between the back of the intake and the firewall. The other frame that I boxed in and made a new tranny cross member for I have since removed my brackets for the crossmember and moved it 4 inches to the rear.

awesome build!

  I got my line lock solenoid installed. In case anyone noticed I did install it backwards. In the out and out the in. I find it works better for me to shut off fluid to the rear brakes and have the fronts work as normal. This way I can roll out of a burn out better. Besides I am used to doing burnouts with one foot still on the brake pedal anyway.
  I still can't decide if the gas tank mod is a complete waste of time or not. I am relocating the filler neck outlet so when I am at the drag strip fuel doesn't splash out the neck. It was also splashing out while doing donuts with an almost full tank of gas. I am also adding a sump for the in tank pump I will be putting in. I just have not got that far yet.

BrokenBlazerDave wrote:



  I got my line lock solenoid installed. In case anyone noticed I did install it backwards. In the out and out the in. I find it works better for me to shut off fluid to the rear brakes and have the fronts work as normal. This way I can roll out of a burn out better. Besides I am used to doing burnouts with one foot still on the brake pedal anyway.
  I still can't decide if the gas tank mod is a complete waste of time or not. I am relocating the filler neck outlet so when I am at the drag strip fuel doesn't splash out the neck. It was also splashing out while doing donuts with an almost full tank of gas. I am also adding a sump for the in tank pump I will be putting in. I just have not got that far yet.

honestly i would look at fuel cell if i was you. i personally believe there is plenty of room in these trunks to fit a 20gallon fuel cell and a spare tire and more. but still looking good man

which snow kit are you putting on this beast?

The Snow Performance kit is part number 212. Seemed to install good and work good so far. I haven't drag raced it yet or hit it with nitrous to see how well it works but soon enough. Any logs with HP Tuners is not showing any knock retard anymore and I have a ton of timing in it. I used an 02 Corvette timing table.
I totally agree with the fuel cell but I think for some reason I like doing things the hard way. I never haul anything in the trunk. I don't think there is any point in carrying the spare tire because of the two different sized tires front and back. The clutch style limited slip would hate two different size tires also. I still like the idea of filling the gas tank in the stock location. For some reason I am too indecisive on the fuel tank. I will figure it out soon.

BrokenBlazerDave wrote:  The Snow Performance kit is part number 212. Seemed to install good and work good so far. I haven't drag raced it yet or hit it with nitrous to see how well it works but soon enough. Any logs with HP Tuners is not showing any knock retard anymore and I have a ton of timing in it. I used an 02 Corvette timing table.
 I totally agree with the fuel cell but I think for some reason I like doing things the hard way. I never haul anything in the trunk. I don't think there is any point in carrying the spare tire because of the two different sized tires front and back. The clutch style limited slip would hate two different size tires also. I still like the idea of filling the gas tank in the stock location. For some reason I am too indecisive on the fuel tank. I will figure it out soon.

nice yeah i agree with you there. how big a shot are you gonna throw at it? and honestly fuel cell for the win. just mount it flush in the truck so you can still use the rest of the space accordingly.

do me a favor if you could shoot a closer pic of your pcm mount and harness on the driver side inner fender please.

I am going to start with 100HP and see where that takes me. Let me know if you want any other pics. In person it doesn't look as cluttered under the hood as it does in pictures.

BrokenBlazerDave wrote:




I am going to start with 100HP and see where that takes me. Let me know if you want any other pics. In person it doesn't look as cluttered under the hood as it does in pictures.

i believe you there when i see mine in pictures i think it looks like shiit but when i see it in persoen it isnt anywhere near the mess i think it is. what is your pcm mount made out of and did you make your fuse panel?

The fuse panel is a small piece of aluminum with everything bolted to it and then bolted to the inner wheel well. The relays are dual 87 terminals so that they can be used for battery feeds and ignition feeds while still being fused. The fuse holders are a universal holders that clips to the one beside it so they can be stacked for as many as you need. The PCM holder is a funny one. I purchased a new Hunter alignment machine for the shop last year and it came with a whole bunch of spare parts. There were brackets to hold books, different heads, different adapters, and spare wiring. None of which I needed. So one of them became a mount for my computer. When I was cleaning up all the pieces after the install it looked like it would be close so I saved it. A few tweaks and it worked. The fuse holder is a factory GM piece for a fuel pump fuse on a 1989 K3500. It was in a spare harness for my truck. I like to go to my local wrecking yard and cut out relays and fuse holders from cars in the crush piles. They always come in handy.

BrokenBlazerDave wrote:The fuse panel is a small piece of aluminum with everything bolted to it and then bolted to the inner wheel well. The relays are  dual 87 terminals so that they can be used for battery feeds and ignition feeds while still being fused. The fuse holders are a universal holders that clips to the one beside it so they can be stacked for as many as you need. The PCM holder is a funny one. I purchased a new Hunter alignment machine for the shop last year and it came with a whole bunch of spare parts. There were brackets to hold books, different heads, different adapters, and spare wiring. None of which I needed. So one of them became a mount for my computer. When I was cleaning up all the pieces after the install it looked like it would be close so I saved it. A few tweaks and it worked. The fuse holder is a factory GM piece for a fuel pump fuse on a 1989 K3500. It was in a spare harness for my truck. I like to go to my local wrecking yard and cut out relays and fuse holders from cars in the crush piles. They always come in handy.

awesome. looks way clean imo! if those boxes ever give you trouble try leash electronics they sell alot of water proof fuse boxes/relay kits

any updates on this thing?

Sorry for the delayed response but the shop has been too busy to work on my junk. The picture shows the only head way I have made and it is not even fully finished yet. I hope I get some time soon. The other picture is what has been using up all my time.

Any chance to get a couple of pictures of your dash w/gauges.

I'm thinking of changing my stock to something different.

I still have the cable speedo in the 700R4.

BrokenBlazerDave wrote:Sorry for taking so long to reply. I really wanted to add some pics but had not been making very much headway. I have a few pics now. To answer a few questions first.
I am going with a fuel cell. The red 1981 is just for drag racing. I welded in that rear bar for rigidity but still may chop the back of the frame off to fit really big tires. That is still up in the air though. It is an LS block with Holley G-body swap mounts to Energy Suspension motor mounts. I have no sentimental attachment to the red car so I am going to chop the crap out of it. I added the weight of the frame bracing because my other car is cracking the roof from the twist it has. I will have to cut a bunch of the floor out to clear the crossmember.
I will get back to the red car soon.
I want to get the Buick done first to see if it works good.

hey i see you got a BOP factory non c clip rearend in there, what disk brake setup are you running??? im in need to one for the identical axle

If that cover is correct that's not a BOP rear that's a GM 8.75" 12 bolt, and if yours looks like that with the half moon indents on the sides of the cover its the same rear

Sent from Topic'it App

GM B-Body Forum wrote:If that cover is correct that's not a BOP rear that's a GM 8.75" 12 bolt, and if yours looks like that with the half moon indents on the sides of the cover its the same rear

Sent from Topic'it App

i thought possibly the same but if you look at it its only a 10 bop cover which is just as the same as mine, and its a 8.5 10 bolt with bop cover. an easy way to tell its a bop with factory c clip eliminators is the tube size bells out to 3.125" about 2-3" away from the backing plate flange. but he did state he swapped a bop 8.5" 10 bolt out of impala in place of the 8.75 that was in the buick previously

It is a 10 bolt. All the guts are 8.5" 10 bolt Chev (with C-clips). I used the BOP axles in the BOP housing with the Chevy guts. The axles are held in with a retainer plate at the end of the axle (no C-clips). The posi in the rear is a 742g715d unit from a local supplier with a used set of 3.42:1 gears from a 1997 Chev K1500 truck. The caliper mounts are a used set from a 1999 Chev 4X4 Blazer with 2002 2WD S10 rotors(NAPA #48-86725). The calipers are from the 1999 rear axle NAPA #SE5264A and SE5263A. It does not have parking brakes but it could if I cared or couldn't write my own safeties. The 12 bolt out of the Buick had a horrible ratio and did not seem to be popular enough to find a good ratio for it. I threw it out. I bought a 1979 Impala for parts that donated the 8.5" BOP axle. I had tried to buy the 1979 over 5 years ago before the owner let it sit on grass and let a bunch of mice use it for a home. If there is anything I forgot let me know. I will get some more pics up soon. I am just hooking up the nitrous now.

BrokenBlazerDave wrote:It is a 10 bolt. All the guts are 8.5" 10 bolt Chev (with C-clips). I used the BOP axles in the BOP housing with the Chevy guts. The axles are held in with a retainer plate at the end of the axle (no C-clips). The posi in the rear is a 742g715d unit from a local supplier with a used set of 3.42:1 gears from a 1997 Chev K1500 truck. The caliper mounts are a used set from a 1999 Chev 4X4 Blazer with 2002 2WD S10 rotors(NAPA #48-8625). The calipers are from the 1999 rear axle NAPA #SE5264A and SE5263A. It does not have parking brakes but it could if I cared or couldn't write my own safeties. The 12 bolt out of the Buick had a horrible ratio and did not seem to be popular enough to find a good ratio for it. I threw it out. I bought a 1979 Impala for parts that donated the 8.5" BOP axle. I had tried to buy the 1979 over 5 years ago before the owner let it sit on grass and let a bunch of mice use it for a home. If there is anything I forgot let me know. I will get some more pics up soon. I am just hooking up the nitrous now.

i was just going to call you back

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got some work in this weekend. BIG thanks BrokenBlazerDave for all the help with this project!!