Top dead center.

I have somehow lost my timing top dead center.

Want an easy way aside pulling things off to check it?

I know there's the spark plug on compression.  But wanting closer for the timing accuracy.

Thanks

Upon installing my new intake Edelbrock #2701, it put new gasket and doped the front and rear. Wrong one as per the aluminum heads. :eek:

Not realizing the front and rear was down on the block already. I am using the 88-92 Corvette aluminum heads on my 383.

Things all sealed and mounted on my new engine test stand. Filled with water and started.

Ran about 10-15 seconds and water coming out all over. Not good. Shut done asap.

Tore the intake off, cleaned it up. The gaskets didn't even seal. Looked at the intake setting on dry. Not surprised it didn't seal. Had .060 clearance both sides.

Did some looking for answers. Suggestion to either mill the end of the intake or order thicker intake gaskets. The milling wouldn't have done it.

Purchased the Fel-Pro #1266 intake gaskets. These are .120 thick. Included are the end pieces with a sticky side for the block. Added a little seal all around on the gaskets and manifold. Worked like a charm. I have run the engine now and changed the oil & flter 3 times to clean out the water.

It now is clean and after enough oil and filters changed were good to go. Some more time and good to go for install.

That Comp. XE-268 hyd.-flat tappet is wild. Should make my 79 Caprice roll.  

That's suck bro I would probably cry if water got in my engine
Luckily u got it cleaned out must of sucked to waste all that oil.
I used a wire from my crate motor packaging but coat hanger works watched till the peak and verified wit valve cover off

Using a wire to see if its at TDC is strange. Usually done with a dial indicator on the piston top.

I think I read somewhere you could get something like that through the spark plug hole.

I'll try EBAY, Never know.

Thanks

Still using the piston stop u need to know tdc to adjust the screw
But with the wire in the plug hole u watch the piston push it up till the peak that tdc
Either that or a balloon on a compression tester adapter tip
I didn't have a balloon so did the wire
But now my timing light is busted so I running by ear right now ill be posting the explosion I mentioned I. Another post and the finished install

I had to find TDC one time on an assembled engine. I used a piece of wire to get close to TDC. Then I took a spark plug and removed all the porcelain. I pressed a rounded end bolt into it and made my own piston stop. With the piston down the cylinder I threaded the stop in and rotated the engine both ways until it contacted the stop. At each stop I marked the balancer. Once I had both marks I measured to the middle and that should be TDC. This should take into consideration that the piston spends 10 to 15 degrees of crankshaft rotation at the top of the cylinder while the piston is changing direction. This should give you the most accurate TDC without a dial indicator.

BrokenBlazerDave wrote:I had to find TDC one time on an assembled engine. I used a piece of wire to get close to TDC. Then I took a spark plug and removed all the porcelain. I pressed a rounded end bolt into it and made my own piston stop. With the piston down the cylinder I threaded the stop in and rotated the engine both ways until it contacted the stop. At each stop I marked the balancer. Once I had both marks I measured to the middle and that should be TDC. This should take into consideration that the piston spends 10 to 15 degrees of crankshaft rotation at the top of the cylinder while the piston is changing direction. This should give you the most accurate TDC without a dial indicator.  

this is the more accurate method when the timing mark is missing or inaccurate. at least from what i have read